Merlot is to the American wine consumer in the 1990s as "burgundy" was in the 70s: the new generic red. A "boom" in wine consumption, combined with the consumer trend to move away from generic wine blends and into varietals, stimulated plantings of "new," as well as "proven" wine grapes in California during the '70s. Merlot did not appear as a California varietal label until the end of the decade and was not a big seller until the end of the '80s. Less than 2,000 acres existed in California in 1985; there are over 50,000 acres in 2003. Merlot is by far the most widely planted grape of the entire Bordeaux region and third, behind carignan and grenache as the most planted black variety in France. However, it has a starring role in only one region, historically, north of Bordeaux's Gironde River, where it is the basis of the wines of St. Emilion and Pomerol. Château Petrus, which has risen in consumer stature in the past three decades, is over 90% Merlot. South of the Gironde, however, merlot usually plays a supporting role in typical Medoc blends with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Château Palmer in the medoc is about 60% Merlot. Because merlot ripens at least a week earlier than either cabernet variety, it is "vineyard insurance" where rains are a factor at harvest. The best quality merlot grows in rocky, arid ground, but is fairly adaptable and grows better than the cabernets in clay-based soils, even in damp, cool climates. Since merlot both buds and flowers early, growers' main worry is susceptibility to shatter or coulure, brought about by frost, rain, or early heatwaves in the Spring. The berry of merlot is relatively thin-skinned and somewhat prone to rot. Merlot is moderately vigorous in vine growth, but must sometimes be reined in from setting too large of a crop by judicious pruning, often followed weeks later by cluster thinning. Merlot on fertile soil may produce eight tons per acre, but best fruit quality is gained if the crop is kept at six tons per acre or less. Merlot's tendencies towards both shatter and over-cropping are paradoxical. Careful selection of both clone and site can avoid this problem, as shatter is more serious in colder climates.While its flavor profile is similar to Cabernet Sauvignon1, Merlot tends to be less distinctive and slightly more herbaceous overall in both aroma and taste. Ripeness seems critical; both under ripe and overripe grapes lean away from fruit and towards herbaceousness. Merlot has slightly lower natural acidity than Cabernet and generally less astringency, therefore usually a more lush mouth-feel. The most frequent, but not exclusive, aromas and flavors typically found in Merlot include: Earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon to mature in bottle, Merlot is held in higher esteem by wine drinkers than by wine collectors. Syrah is richer and darker, Pinot Noir lighter and more velvety, but Merlot has become the darling red wine. Is it because the consumer finds Merlot easy-to-drink or is it perhaps, because Merlot is easy-to-say? I'll have a glass of Merlot, please, while I think about it.

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